Revitalisation of heritage silk weaving clusters: a case of Varanasi

Abstract

India is a melting pot of different cultures. Communities of varying cultural background live together in peace, often sharing aspects of their rich and diversified past. A key aspect of their culturally rich past are certain heritage textile handicrafts which have been passed down from one generation to the next. These include the likes of Chikkankari works in Lucknow or the weaving of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees. Not only do these crafts help the artisans make ends meet, but they also are a matter of pride. Given the historic relevance of such heritage crafts, the Government of India has identified schemes such as MSME Cluster Development Programme for upliftment of these crafts, and HRIDAY for preservation of the intangible heritage value which have contributed towards the development of a city. Varanasi, is another city famous for traditional handloom weaving of Baranasi Silk Sarees, being traced back to Vedic times. Varanasi’s handloom silk industry has given livelihood to a large group of the regional population and was one of the most densely concentrated silk weaving cluster in India. But, with the coming of electrically powered looms, the traditional activity is on the verge of dying out due to the influx of cheap Chinese Silk, threat of the Surat silk market and cheaper tastes of younger generations affecting the life of weavers. Further, the weavers have poor access to basic services, erratic power supply, and harsh living and working in conditions such as poorly built and serviced structures situated in unplanned areas. These, along with poor returns due to exploitation by middlemen and a general disinterest in learning the household craft by younger generations has led to a rapid decline since the turn of the century. Thus, immediate action needs to be taken to ensure survival of this heritage craft. For this purpose, the aim of the study shall be the revitalisation of heritage silk weaving clusters in Varanasi, through economic sustainability for promoting the well-being of the weaver community. The study has been divided into four broad objectives starting with spatially exploring the process involved in silk weaving, followed by spatially mapping the built environment attributes of the cluster. Value chain for the product shall be assessed to identify challenges and prospects. Finally based on the issues identified, strategies shall be proposed to strengthen spatial and infrastructure linkages to add potential to the value chain. Data collection was carried through primary and secondary sources the major contributors being the Handloom Census by Weaver Service Centre, Varanasi and a perception study about silk weaving cluster in Varanasi, through focus group discussions with various stakeholder groups. Data synthesis was carried out to identify cluster concentration and dispersion, study market and transit nodes proximity along with infrastructure facilities available to weaving activities. The value chain for the silk products was assessed to identify potential for value redistribution. Finally, the study suggests spatial strategies for the integration of cluster through development of an Integrated Textile Park, in convergence with Silk Integrated Textile Park Scheme, along with development of dedicated market areas and delineation of freight and non-freight zones to better manage movement of goods. Policy level recommendations for the study include scheme convergence with HRIDAY and lastly development of a dedicated cooperative society to help redistribute the value of the product across the value chain.