Handloom weaving village, Banaras

Abstract

Heritage can be defined as, “our legacy from the past, what we live with today, and what we pass on to future generations” -UNESCO. Handloom weaving is a living heritage that involves a technique where the natural fibres are stitched together to a fabric. This craft of weaving has been present for centuries and many communities within India are involved in this craft. There are numerous handloom textile clusters established throughout India by the Textile ministry of India. One such weaving cluster is Uttar Pradesh, Varanasi. The Handloom industry of Varanasi is infamous for its Banarasi sarees. Extremely high in demand and having a huge export value, these sarees have an annual turnover in crores. This craft of weaving Banarasi saree has been passed on for generations as a family legacy. But in recent years this handloom industry is not bearing its fruit and is forcing a lot of fellow weavers to look up for other ways to earn their living. The younger generation is finding it a very difficult task to continue this family occupation due to a number of factors like lack of recognition, low wages, poor built-environment, and a highly competitive market. Industrialization introduced power looms, extremely efficient, and would be able to replicate similar designs fraction of time. Combating the ever-growing competitive market of mechanized weaved sarees, the weavers are starting to lose hope. There have been various initiatives taken by the Ministry of Textiles and State handloom Department to safeguard the dying craft of handloom weaving. Although efforts have been made in terms of economic assistance and health incentives to improve the socio-economic conditions of the weavers and also enhance the craft, not many efforts have been made in terms of enhancing the spatial and built environments associated with weaving. Also lacking in the execution of the public policies towards the weavers often leave them devoid of any benefits and leading to their marginalization and forcing them to live in sub-human environments. Hence, there is a compelling need to study and understand the imperative association between Banaras’s handloom business-model canvas, handloom weaver’s intangible craft, and their tangible built-environment, which is central to their efficient working and living environment. This thesis is a design solution to the proposal put forth by the New York-based NGO, NEST, which aims to develop a Varanasi Silk weaving Atelier to help handloom silk-weaving artisans reclaim their livelihoods by providing them with fair market access to compete with the increasing use of power looms and cheap factory labour. It also strives to elevate the perception and value of Varanasi handloom silk, bringing awareness to and praise for the luxurious craft and the talented artisans who make it possible, as well as training the weavers about newer trends and business models through a collaborative communal workshop where we can learn, work, and grow as a community. Although the proposed project primarily asks to develop a training and facility centre for the weavers, the brief has been tweaked a bit to incorporate imperative social infrastructure and traditional Banarasi’s housing settlement for 60 weavers to support and further develop the community and promote weaving tourism. The project is envisioned to be one of the future landmarks of this historic city, which accentuates its weaving tradition. The proposed project is envisaged to be of precedence sustainability for various other communities across the country which are engaged in a similar craft. The Intervention proposed aims at Recapturing and augmenting the spirit of the Indian Handloom Weavers’ clusters, by designing a state-of-the-art handloom production village in Banaras. The conceived proposal demonstrates Avant-Garde spatial planning while taking forward the vernacular language of the region. The Thesis aims at breaking down the silos that prevent better livability. By amalgamating the disciplines of design/architecture, communal collaboration, and business, impactful solutions can be created that holds real value for people. The architectural design aims at providing a befitting, built and working environment, that responds to the nature of occupation, livelihood and community well being. As the site is situated in a rural setting, the design demands an intervention that would blend into the existing habitat. Care is taken to promote the production of handloom craft and art, with the help of training and exhibition centres, the next generation can take advantage of this, engage themselves in the art of weaving, thereby ensuring that the future of this famous art of weaving is secured. Especially with a community like the one this Thesis targets, architecture has to be backed up by viability in business, which is equally critical for the community’s sustainable growth. Hence, along with fulfilling the fundamentals of the architectural thesis by providing a design solution pertaining to the built environment, the thesis focuses on educating and training the weaver’s community and promoting active handloom weaving tourism.